Day 1 Oban to Freshwater Hut
1.45pm departure from the Backpackers as we walked to Golden Bay
for the 2.30pm water taxi pick up allowing high tide to take us up Freshwater Inlet. Ranger Harriet and
10 ABTC trampers took the 30-40 min ride, firstly up the wide Paterson Inlet, then up the narrow winding
and curving river to Freshwater Hut (8kms). The water level was still high but not covering the jetty
as it had just days ago. The hut could be seen as we approached the jetty just a short walk across the
swing bridge.
A group of us soon decided on a climb of Rocky Mountain which took under 1 ˝ hours
to the top. First a little wet and boggy, then a well defined track, a little steeper for a while then
leveling out to a gradual climb to the top. We enjoyed great views of Paterson Inlet and the winding
river. Also less clear views of the stretch of Mason Bay to the west, and flooded areas of swamp below
to the south. (Fred’s Camp Track area where we will exit in 4 days time?) Ruggedy Range stood out to
the North West – thoughts of the challenges ahead for the NW Circuit group!)
We`returned to a
dinner prepared by Helena, Ted and team! We talked with Karin – a researcher based at the hut observing
the movement, feeding and nesting habits of the Stewart Island Robins.
Day 2 Freshwater Hut to
Mason Bay
9am departure along a flat path with mud patches and boggy sections to skirt around.
Our valley swamp walk was accompanied by friendly robins perhaps looking for the meal and worms that
Karin the researcher had been feeding them! We took a group rest at the old and new bridge spot, in
the company of the robins. The flat easy path proceeded under a scenic and high manuka tree archway.
The stream beside us ran towards Freshwater inlet nearly all the way, even though we were approaching
the coast. A long boardwalk was welcome, when we observed the swampy brown mud below. Flaxes lined
parts of the path and birds flew in and out these – Ted noticed the Fern birds.
Views of sandhills
marked the proximity to the coast but still a number of kilometers to walk. The coast looked nearer
than it wss. Possible kiwi habitats failed to reveal the kiwi. We all arrived at the hut by 2.30pm and
we erected the double fly on the spacious lawn area although plenty of beds were available in the hut.
A walk to the beach ( 20-30 min) was a must to see the breakers rolling in and the wide stretch of
sand in both directions. Other trampers arrived so the evening Devotions and a Quiz suggested by Helena
didn’t seem to be suitable hut activities. Kiwi spotters were out and about after 9.30pm but most of
us failed to sight one. However Colin and David returned from the Beach track reporting a very large
fellow – up to the height of Colin’s knees - did take a walk right past them with a good 45 secs of viewing!
None others were sighted.
Day 3 At Mason Bay
At 9.30am we arrived at the old Homestead
for the Ranger’s tour. Harriet explained how the newspaper lining under the wallpaper revealed the
date of construction – 1923. Coal range and parts of the house built from driftwood made it a quaint
home. Behind the house we climbed the high sandhill for some great views of Mason Bay. We sighted deer
and kiwi footprints on the sand as we descended.
After a cup of tea, Nelson shared his devotions
about Kiwis – creatures living at risk. Some points he made: a) Psalm 55.6 O that I had the wings of
a dove and could be at rest. Christians need to persevere against secular attitudes and discouragement.
b) Kiwis are faithful family members. Stewart Is ones are particularly communal including wider relatives.
This reminds us of our team and community spirit.
After lunch the NW Circuit group were due.
We went to the beach to welcome them as they approached the hut. Another Kiwi spotting activity took
place for a second evening looking on the dunes and tracks around the hut to no avail – for most of us
who gave up too early and went to bed! David still up at 11pm saw 2 kiwi chasing one another in and
out of the bush, squawking and entertaining a group of onlookers for about 20 min.
Later reports
from other trampers said that there had been a group near our tents at midnight! We slept on!
Day
4 Mason Bay to Freshwater Hut
We were 9 trampers who made the 9am departure for Freshwater hut.
(Helena joined the other group.) Before reaching the Homestead DOC workers on the track were pointing
into the bush ….we walked up quietly and YES …a Kiwi for all of us to see. A smaller juvenile bird pecking
around the ferns in a dim cavern shaded by tall ferns. It escaped out of sight before we had our cameras
focused.
An easy walk back across the flat tracks and boardwalks with an 11am break for snacks
and Barbara’s devotions about the Heartland (The central part of Stewart Is we have been exploring)
likened to coming into God’s presence, knowing His heart, and seeking His ways for the New Year. Lunch
at the hut and a warm breeze helped us dry out the tent flys hanging them from the swing bridge. Colin
took a water taxi back to Oban so now we were only 8 left. A busy hut had 2 water taxi visits in the
afternoon. DOC workers and Karin (Robin researcher) and other groups stayed at Freshwater that night.
Day 5 Freshwater Hut to Fred’s Camp, & to Oban
8am departure from Freshwater in anticipation
of some wet walking! Kelvin had built a make-shift bridge over the first deep ditch to help us all make
a good start! Ted led the way and scouted out the best passable parts of each bog we encountered until
they became too wide to skirt. Kelvin led us straight through some knee-deep patches. Other parts of
the track were firm and dry but the wind was strong and the possibility of rain following us helped
us keep up the pace! By 10.15am we had reached the first foresty part of the track and we were all encouraged
with our progress. Barbara managed to slip on a tree root, fall in the mud and cut her head. Rod was
at the ready with the First Aid. The forest track was attractive and a pleasant walk. The undulating
track through some prolific fern growth and tall, mature trees led us to Fred’s Camp before 1pm.
Nelson boiled water for hot drinks and the improved sunny weather made it an extra pleasant lunch spot.
The water taxi arrived before 3pm and we were on our way back to Oban for hot showers and a good
meal!
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