| Auckland Baptist Tramping Club |
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MATEMATEONGA METAMORPHOSIS Whanganui National Park Easter 14-17 April 1995 |
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This was what was possibly a first-ever attempt by anyone at all to combine canoeing on theWhanganui
River with tramping the complete Matemateonga Walkway. To make the trip run, we needed to have two equal
groups, a harder option to canoe two days from Whakahoro to the start of the walkway followed by two
days solid tramping, and an easier option taking three days for the tramp, followed by a half day paddle
to Pipiriki In this report we will follow the harder group. Friday Having overnighted at Raetihi motor camp we prepared for the canoe trip. We packed our gear into waterproof barrels and loaded our canoes onto trailers, along with a whole horde of other canoeists. Then we travelled in a full-sized bus to Whakahoro before loading our canoes. We set off about 11:30am. The landing was into the Retaruke River just before it met the Whanganui River. There was a sense of apprehension of turbulent whitewater rapids, gained as a result of studying nights which we had been given some weeks before the trip. There were visions of capsizes, and getting ourselves wet right through - and a warning to tackle the first rapid to the left because of hidden snags. But all this was soon forgotten as we entered the river and travelled over the first rapids - really little more than ripples perhaps due to high water levels. Our minds were more on the Creator of the rapids, not the rapids themselves, as we relaxed and took in the lovely pristine bush and gorge scenery. We stopped for lunch at a landing just by the Mangapapa Stream, which was in a narrow ravine with a waterfall at the back. Soon after we resumed our travel, we came to what was known as The Whirlpool. This was once a dangerous whirlpool, caused by a slip 120 years ago, and which was powerful enough to turn a large steamboat around. It was later tamed, but was still bad enough to give Garry and Nelson a good dunking! With the help of the two Johns, whose canoe went through unscathed, probably because they travelled close to the other bank, they were able to get to the bank and right their canoe before carrying on with their journey. We carried on, drinking in the lovely scenery in silence - canoeing is the way to see the Whanganui River, travelling by any other boats is too quick and too noisy. We had only one jet boat pass us - that was the park rangers on their regular river patrol. Our stop for the night was John Coull Hut, which was crowded. But it was lovely to be able to "canoe-camp" in the hut. It was hard work carrying heavy barrels up to the hut - some found it easier to roll them up. Saturday We were on the water by 8am - and the mist was beautiful, gradually lifting to reveal another fine day. We "connected" up in a couple of places, on one occasion all four canoes were joined together, along with a fifth canoe carrying a dad and son, to form a large "raft" - but we separated when we came to another rapid. Late morning we tied up at the Mangapurua Landing and stretched our legs on the 45 minute walk to the Bridge to Nowhere, a bush track leaving past white vertical bluffs to a bridge built in the 1930's, only to be abandoned when the Great Depression and World War II forced farmers in the valley to abandon their farms. We had our lunch at canoe's end, the start of the Matemateonga Walkway - and that was after landing about 2pm, then emptying the barrels and securing the canoes well above river level for the easier group in two days time. One and a half hours' hard work on a steep track brought us to Puketotara Hut, our stop for the night. And we had the hut to ourselves! Sunday An early night ( all in bed by 8pm) allowed us to be up to appreciate a beautiful sunrise over Ruapehu to begin Easter Sunday. The fog below us was an extensive sea, with mountain peaks and ridges sticking out like islands. And looking westward, a lovely sight of the setting full moon, a hallmark of Easter. And this meant an 8am start on our tramping. The day's tramping was along a well-formed track, blocked in places by fallen trees, through bush sidling the crest of the Matemateonga Range, with occasional views. We reached Ngapurua Shelter late morning - the two Johns and Jeff had just arrived there when the easier party suddenly appeared! The two groups had a shared lunch in the grassy clearing by the shelter, then we were able to turn our thoughts to the One who created this wonderful setting. We had a short devotional service. Two walking sticks, carried by someone from the easier party, were made to form a cross. David read a passage from the Gospel of John relating to the resurrection of Jesus Christ - to best appreciate this piece from the Bible one should close one's eyes and visualise the disciples discovering the empty tomb, Mary weeping, and Jesus Himself suddenly appearing, and later appearing to others including doubting Thomas before going up to heaven. We sang two well-known Easter hymns and had a time of sharing about this greatest-ever event in the world's history. Then the groups parted, and we carried on to Pouri Hut. Again we had the hut to ourselves. A lovely dinner thanks to Mae and her helpers, a lovely dessert thanks to John, breakfast next morning thanks to Goldilocks (she would have loved all our breakfasts on this trip), and lights out by 8:30pm, some visited the toilet in the middle of the night to see Ruapehu in the moonlight, but we all enjoyed the sunrise view of the mountain above the fog and cloud. Monday Colin got his watch out - 7:15am, all packed and ready to leave by 7:45am - and we did it! We had seven hours' travel and a mid-afternoon rendezvous at the end with the farmers who were minding the cars. Plus we needed to climb Mt.Humphries as well. So the pace was on! The track was along a wide benched former road, with frequent views of the bush-clad valleys below. The track to Mt. Humphries was reached about an hour later, and we left our packs to tackle the three-quarter thought hour climb up a rough track, steep at first before cuddling a bluff and carrying on to the summit. But the effort was well rewarded. A sweeping panorama with Mt.Egmont to the west and Ruapehu to the east. We had a very hurried lunch at the final stop, Omaru Hut, before the last stretch, a gradual uphill track followed by a long gradual downh thel. We were out at Kohi Saddle about 2pm - only to wait a considerable time for the farmers to bring the vehicles - Joy's new Toyota Corolla and David's campervan. Jeff drove the van, Garry sat in the front, and John Mc had the back to himself. Despite all that was said about the van two days earlier when the groups met ( it was said to be cold, uncomfortable and smelling of petrol fumes) John found it very comfortable, and was able to stretch out and sleep his way back to Auckland! The other five travelled in the car, three crammed into the back seat. We travelled home via Stratford and Piopio ( to travel the more direct way, through Whangamomona and Taumarunui would mean rough and winding roads), stopping only for munchies for our stomachs and BP for the van's tummy at Te Kuiti. We were back at The Bracken about 10pm, not long before the other group arrived, so all drivers were able to drive their own vehicles home that night. You can thank the Rolling Stones for persistent flashes of "sheet lightning" over Mount Eden seen as we arrived at The Bracken - they were performing at Western Springs! 16 tired people went to bed that night having enjoyed a terrific trip, and possibly a first for New Zealand. COST: $150 |